Rotor Cranks Technical Manuals and Specifications

• Manufacturer's listed weights for the complete new RS4X Road Double system, including integrated BB and chainrings, is 1190g for Titanium and 1270g for Steel/CRMO.
  
  
• The AERO chainring is 35g heavier than a standard outer chainring (53T).
  
  
• The bolt circle of the spider for the double and triple two most outer positions is 114mm.
  
  
• The bolt circle of the inner chainring on our road triple is approximately 78.9mm.
  
  
• The Q factor (distance between crankarms) of Rotor Cranks are: Road Double at 151mm, Road Triple at 160MM, MTB at 165mm, & MTB (2004) Free-Ride @ 169mm.
  
  

• We sell Loctite Aluminum/Ti frame prep, a 25-gram aerosol can available in the Small Parts section of each RS4X page of the Online Store. It appears that the 25-gram can will do several installations. This prep can be used if your regulation point slips because the loctite will not dry properly in your BB tube. This is a rare occurance, but if you own a Ti, Mg, or Aluminum frame and have regulation point slippage, this prep should solve your problem. The Loctite ordering number is LOC-21347. The part number on the label is N-7640 Primer.
  
  
• Along the same lines, if you find that the Loctite has really bonded the Rotor to the bottom bracket shell, here are two illustrations that may help you to remove the system: [1] and [2] .

Recumbent Installation

1. It is not unusual for four threads to be showing on the right side (drive side) of the BB tube.

There are enough threads engaged within the BB tube. The details are:
a. The threaded area on the drive side of the Rotor is 18mm long.
b. The four threads showing represent 5.5mm.
c. There are 12.5mm's of threads engaged within the BB tube, which is adequate.

2. The most important issues are:
a. That an adequate amount of blue-color thread adhesive (Loctite) was put on the drive side threads of the Rotor & BB tube at the time of installation.
b. That an adequate amount of blue-color thread adhesive (Loctite) was put on the threads of the left side (non-drive side) locking cup & BB tube at time of installation.
c. That the left side (non-drive side) locking cup was tightened securely at the time of installation (torqued to 52~55 lb-ft or 70~75 N-m).
d. That the thread adhesive was completely dry before the recumbent (any bike) was ridden (I suggest overnight).

3. The rider should now re-check the installation to be certain the regulation point is properly adjusted to the #3 reference mark (arrow pointing to arrow) when the right crank is fully extended in the dead spot position. If it is, the rider will really enjoy the improvements of rotorized cycling. 

4. The vast majority of Rotor Cranks riders use the #3 default position, however, to maximize the benefits of Rotor Cranks, it is recommended that cyclists try three different regulation points; firstly the #3 default setting, secondly #4 & lastly #2, for about 200-miles in each. After this adaptation time & experience they will know which regulation point gives them the maximum benefits. For competitive racers, different race-course profiles could dictate different regulation points, depending on the ascents (or lack thereof), total distance & individual strength. Of course there are many different regulation points, the marks on the Rotor are for reference. Different body geometry's, frame geometry's, saddle positions, time spent in and/or out of the saddle while racing, seated positions, etc., all play a role in determining the best regulation point for an individual.